Draining an above ground pool doesn’t have to be a nightmare. It’s not rocket science. But if you rush it, you can tear the liner. Or worse, flood your neighbor’s yard.
You might be closing for the winter. Maybe the pump died. Or maybe you just need a deep clean. Whatever the reason, knowing how to drain an above ground pool correctly is non-negotiable. Do it wrong, and the liner shrinks. Do it right, and you’re set for months.
Let’s cut the fluff. Here is the practical, no-nonsense way to get the water out without destroying your investment.
Why You Shouldn’t Drain It Often
First, a reality check. You shouldn’t completely drain your pool unless you have to.
Why? Because above-ground pool liners are designed to be supported by water pressure. Remove that pressure, and the liner can shrink, tear, or collapse. Structural damage to the frame is also a risk if the liner loses its tension.
Only drain completely for:
* Major repairs.
* End-of-season winterization in freezing climates.
* Severe contamination that chemicals can’t fix.
If you’re just balancing water, leave it alone. Less draining is better.
Choose Your Weapon: Siphon vs. Pump
You have three main options. Pick the one that fits your tools and patience.
- Garden Hose Siphon: Free. Slow. Tedious. Good for small pools.
- Submersible Pump: Fast. Efficient. Requires a pump.
- Electric Pump: Fastest. Requires electricity and careful monitoring.
The Siphon Method (Low Tech)
This works if you have gravity on your side. You need a spot lower than your pool.
- Attach a garden hose to a faucet.
- Fill the hose completely. Water must fill every inch.
- Cap the faucet end.
- Quickly move the other end to a drainage area lower than the pool water level.
- Release the cap. Water flows.
It’s slow. But it costs nothing. And it’s quiet.
The Submersible Pump (The Standard)
Most pros use a submersible utility pump. It’s rugged. It handles debris better than an electric pump.
- Place the pump at the lowest point in the pool. Use bricks to keep it off the liner if the bottom is uneven.
- Attach a garden hose to the pump’s output.
- Run the hose to your drainage zone.
- Plug it in.
Watch it. If the pump runs dry, it burns out. Don’t let that happen.
The Electric Pump (High Risk, High Reward)
Electric pumps are powerful. They’re also dangerous if misused.
- Keep all electrical components away from water. Use a GFCI outlet.
- Submerge the pump head but keep the motor dry.
- Monitor continuously. Electric pumps can overheat if the intake is blocked.
Where Does the Water Go?
This is where people get fined. And where they ruin their lawns.
Do not drain chlorinated water into storm drains. Storm drains lead directly to rivers, lakes, and oceans. Chlorine kills fish. It destroys ecosystems. It’s illegal in many municipalities.
Do not dump on your neighbor’s property. It’s rude. It’s liable. It’s a lawsuit waiting to happen.
Do drain into:
* A sanitary sewer (if your city allows it). Check local codes.
* A dry well.
* A porous area of your lawn, away from foundations.
* A street gutter (only if local laws permit and it’s non-chlorinated or dechlorinated).
Test the water. If it’s heavily chlorinated, let it sit for 24–48 hours before draining onto grass. The sun breaks down the chlorine. Or use a dechlorinator tablet.
Protecting the Liner
As the water level drops, the liner is vulnerable.
- Watch for wrinkles. If the liner starts to ball up, stop. The suction can tear it.
- Check for air bubbles. Bubbles under the liner mean it’s lifting. This is bad.
- Stop early. Don’t let the pump suck air. Air can damage the pump and agitate the liner, causing tears.
Leave a few inches of water at the bottom. You can remove the rest manually.
Getting the Last Bit Out
When the pump can’t reach the remaining water, you’re in the final stretch.
Use a wet/dry vacuum. It’s the easiest way.
Or use a sponge. It’s tedious. But it works.
Wipe down the walls. Get all the slime. Slime breeds bacteria. Bacteria ruins liners.
Dry the pool completely. Mold grows in damp, dark places. A dry pool is a happy pool.
Refilling and Rebalancing
Now you refill. Fresh water.
But fresh water isn’t neutral. It’s raw.
You must rebalance the chemistry before anyone swims.
Check these levels:
* pH: Aim for 7.2–7.6.
* Alkalinity: 80–120 ppm.
* Chlorine: 1–3 ppm.
* Calcium Hardness: 200–400 ppm.
Shock the pool. Run the filter for 24 hours. Test again.
If you skip this, you’ll have cloudy water. Green algae. Itchy skin. It’s avoidable.
Preventing Future Drains
The best way to drain your pool is to not have to.
- Clean the filter. Backwash or clean cartridge filters regularly.
- Skim daily. Leaves and bugs die. Decomposition clouds water.
- Balance chemicals weekly. Consistency is key.
- Cover it. A solar cover keeps debris out and reduces evaporation.
Regular maintenance extends the life of your liner. It saves you time. It saves you money.
Draining is a skill. But maintenance is a habit.
Build the habit. You’ll spend less time with a hose and more time swimming.
The water is heavy. The liner is fragile. Respect both.
And check your local laws before you open that valve. One fine can cost more than a new pump.
